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It's squash season and my favourite time of the year, not least for all the curries and other comfort food of autumn. Today's Rajasthani sautéed dish is one I cook often, and the blend of fresh ginger, chili and palm sugar lends it a wonderful flavor harmony. The biryani, on the other hand, is packed with whole spices, basmati and ghee, which give so much more flavour to the layers of rice and vegetables.

Mushroom and Squash Biryani

A celebration of curry dishes begins around early October, so what better way to mark the occasion than with a flavorful, comforting, all-in-one-pot biryani? For convenience, prepare the spiced vegetable mixture element in advance and layer all components on the day you want to serve.

Preparation 20 min
Cook 2 hr
Yields 4

For the squash and mushroom gravy
4 tbsp ghee, or use butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, peeled and thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, slit open lengthways
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or kashmiri chilli powder
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cut into bite-sized pieces
300g button mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
400ml vegetable stock, or use water
Salt, as needed
2 tbsp chopped coriander, to garnish

Rice preparation
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

For the biryani
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, soaked in 3 tbsp warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, as accompaniments

First make the gravy. Melt the ghee in a sizable, heavy-based saucepan on a medium heat, incorporate the cumin seeds, bay and cloves, and fry for a few seconds. Stir in the onion slices and cook, stirring often, for about half an hour, until tender. When the onions start to brown, remove half to a plate and reserve (for later use during the layering).

Introduce the fresh chilies and ginger to the remaining onions, cook for a minute, then mix in the tomato puree, chili powder, turmeric and coriander powder, and sauté for a short while. Turn down to a low heat, stir in the yoghurt and cook for two minutes.

Add the squash and mushrooms, stir to coat in the spice mixture, then fry for three minutes. Add the stock or water, and add salt to taste. Heat until boiling, then turn down the heat, place lid and cook gently for about twenty minutes, mixing midway to ensure nothing's stuck to the base of the pot. Garnish with coriander, then remove from the stove.

Preheat the oven to moderately hot temperature. Rinse the basmati, then put it in a saucepan with a litre of water and the bay leaves, cardamom pods and seasoning. Bring to a boil, simmer for around ten minutes, until three-quarters cooked, then drain.

To build the layered dish, place a spoonful of warmed ghee in a casserole pot for which you have a tight-fitting lid. Spoon half the spiced vegetables, then top that with half the cooked grains. Sprinkle half the saffron infusion, ginger, mint leaves, cardamom powder and spice blend, then top with the reserved fried onions. Top with the rest of curry mixture, then spoon on the remaining grains. Finish with the rest of ghee, saffron water, ginger, mint, ground cardamom and spice mix.

Cover with parchment, cover with the lid, then bake on the middle shelf of the oven for about fifteen minutes, so the aromas soak into the rice. Remove of the heat, leave to rest, keeping covered, for 10 minutes, then remove the lid and present with yogurt sauce and salad.

Rajasthani Achari Kaddu (Pumpkin with Spice Blend Sauté)

The Indian word "achari" refers to flavouring a preparation using preserving spices, and the combination includes mustard, fennel seeds, fenugreek, cumin, hing and kalonji, but they're not used only in pickles. This mixture also appears in various types of curries and stir-fries, like this recipe.

Preparation 10 min
Cook 30 min
Yields 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, minced
750g squash flesh, or use pumpkin, cubed
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, as needed
1 tbsp jaggery, or substitute with brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Place the mustard, fenugreek and fennel seeds in a mortar, roughly grind, then reserve. Put the oil in a spacious skillet or Indian wok on a moderate flame. Add the crushed spices and the asafoetida, and sauté, mixing, for a few seconds. Mix in the chopped ginger, fry for a minute, then add the squash, chili powder and turmeric, and sauté, stirring, for several additional minutes.

Pour 50ml water to the pan, season with salt to taste and bring to a boil. Place lid, reduce the heat, and simmer for about twenty minutes, mixing midway through. Add the palm sugar, breaking up chunks a little, then add the dried mango, mix thoroughly and serve warm with chapatis or naan.