The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in Urban Gardens

Each 20 minutes or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted stop. Close by, a police siren pierces the near-constant traffic drone. Commuters hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as rain clouds form.

It is perhaps the last place you expect to find a well-established vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants heavy with plump purplish berries on a rambling garden plot sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just north of Bristol town centre.

"I've noticed people hiding illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," says Bayliss-Smith. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your grapevines."

The cameraman, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a kombucha drinks business, is not the only urban winemaker. He's pulled together a loose collective of growers who produce vintage from four hidden city grape gardens tucked away in private yards and community plots across Bristol. The project is sufficiently underground to possess an official name yet, but the group's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.

City Wine Gardens Across the World

So far, the grower's plot is the only one listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming world atlas, which features more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred plants on the hillsides of Paris's renowned artistic district neighbourhood and over three thousand vines overlooking and inside the Italian city. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement reviving urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has discovered them all over the globe, including cities in Japan, South Asia and Uzbekistan.

"Vineyards help cities stay more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. They preserve land from construction by establishing long-term, productive farming plots within urban environments," explains the association's president.

Similar to other vintages, those produced in urban areas are a product of the soils the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the weather and the individuals who tend the grapes. "A bottle of wine represents the charm, community, environment and history of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.

Mystery Eastern European Variety

Back in the city, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the vines he grew from a plant abandoned in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the rain comes, then the pigeons may seize their chance to attack once more. "Here we have the mystery Polish grape," he says, as he cleans bruised and mouldy grapes from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and additional renowned European varieties – you need not treat them with pesticides ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."

Group Efforts Across the City

The other members of the group are also taking advantage of sunny interludes between showers of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's shimmering harbour, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of wine from France and Spain, Katy Grant is collecting her dark berries from approximately 50 vines. "I adore the aroma of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a basket of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."

Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly inherited the vineyard when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her family in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to look after the vines in the yard of their new home. "This vineyard has previously endured three different owners," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the concept of environmental care – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can continue producing from the soil."

Sloping Vineyards and Traditional Production

A short walk away, the final two members of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established more than one hundred fifty vines perched on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the tangled vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, the filmmaker, sixty, is picking clusters of dusty purple dark berries from rows of vines arranged along the hillside with the assistance of her child, her family member. Scofield, a documentary producer who has worked on Netflix's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that amateurs can make intriguing, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for upwards of seven pounds a glass in the growing number of wine bars focusing on low-processing wines. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can truly make good, natural wine," she says. "It's very on trend, but really it's reviving an old way of making wine."

"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces into the juice," explains the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, pips and red liquid. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to kill the wild yeast and then incorporate a commercially produced culture."

Difficult Environments and Inventive Approaches

In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who inspired Scofield to plant her grapevines, has assembled his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. The former teacher, a northern English PE teacher who taught at Bristol University cultivated an interest in viticulture on annual sporting trips to Europe. But it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to make French-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers," admits the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to fungal infections."

"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the sole challenge faced by grape cultivators. Reeve has been compelled to erect a fence on

Andrea Johnston
Andrea Johnston

A tech enthusiast and lifestyle blogger passionate about sharing knowledge and inspiring others through engaging content.